Introduction

Buying a second-hand rowing boat can be an excellent way to get on the water without the significant investment of purchasing new. However, there are several important factors to consider to ensure you make a wise purchase. This guide will walk you through everything from sizing to inspection, helping you avoid costly mistakes.

First Things First: Is It the Right Size?

Getting the right size boat for your body weight is the number one consideration. A boat that's too small will sit low in the water and feel sluggish; one that's too large will be unstable and difficult to control.

A quick way to check if a boat suits your weight is to look at the height of the deck relative to the water surface when you're sitting in it. If you're at the extremes of the manufacturer's weight range, check carefully whether it will truly fit you.

Finding the Boat's History

Locate the Serial Number

Find the serial number of the boat you're interested in. Since the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, it became standard practice (based on FISA/World Rowing boat standards) to add serial numbers to racing shells.

You can then call the boat builder with the serial number and ask:

  • What was the original build weight?
  • What year was it built?
  • What hull shape was it designed for?
  • Has it been back for any repairs?

Questions to Ask the Seller

  • How many owners has the boat had?
  • Has it had any major repairs or structural damage?
  • How much has it been rowed? (Club boat vs. occasional use)
  • Is it heavy? Know the minimum weight for the boat class – a single scull should weigh at least 14kg.
  • Has the boat been stored indoors or outdoors?
  • What is included in the sale?

What's Included in the Sale?

If this is your first boat purchase, consider what you'll need to get on the water:

  • Boat slings for storage and transport
  • Oars/sculls
  • Rowing electronics (SpeedCoach, etc.)
  • Boat cover or bag

These extras can add significant value to the deal or represent additional costs you'll need to budget for.

Inspecting the Hull – The Most Critical Check

Hull integrity is the key consideration. Here's how to thoroughly inspect it:

Visual Inspection

  • Gel/paint coat condition: Turn your head and look sideways down the hull to spot imperfections, dents, and repairs.
  • Hull pits and cracks: These are red flags that need professional assessment.
  • Skin oxidation: Is the boat skin dull and oxidised? This affects both appearance and can indicate age/UV damage.
  • Painted-over repairs: If it's been painted over, you won't be able to see what's underneath. Ask specifically about repairs.

Check for Dents

Use a torch to check for dents in the hull:

  • Above the waterline: Generally more cosmetic, less serious.
  • Below the waterline: Could be more serious and cause leaks – this needs careful assessment.

Structural Checks

  • V-splash/saxboard: Look at the saxboard behind the cockpit – wobble it with your hands and check how robust it is.
  • Shoulders/knees: Stand next to the cockpit where the riggers attach. Hold the sides of the boat and pull your hands towards each other. Any flex or movement here is a red flag – a broken shoulder lowers the value significantly and needs repair.
  • Leaks: Make sure to check for leaks when you take the boat for a test row.

Checking the Riggers

  • Hairline cracks: Look carefully for hairline fractures on riggers, especially along flanges where wing riggers mount.
  • Flogged-out holes: Check that rigger mounting holes aren't enlarged. If there's play in the rigger, these holes will need to be fixed – speak to a boat builder.
  • Indentations: Over-tightened rigger bolts can create indentations in the shoulder. A large penny washer can help hold the rigger more securely.

Red Flags to Watch For

  • Hull pits and cracks
  • Oxidised or deteriorating boat skin
  • Poor gel/paint coat condition
  • Dents below the waterline
  • Hairline cracks on riggers
  • Flogged-out rigger holes
  • Broken or weak shoulders
  • Major repairs (any repair adds weight to the boat)
  • Repairs not done by a professional boat builder

What Can Easily Be Replaced

Don't let these minor issues put you off an otherwise good boat – they're all easily replaceable:

  • Oarlocks/gates
  • Slides and seat wheels
  • Shoes and foot stretchers (wrong shoe size is not a reason not to buy)
  • Canvas decking
  • Scull grips
  • Bow ball
  • Number slot

Negotiating the Price

Any purchase is a negotiation. Here are some tips:

  • Ask the vendor to suggest the price first.
  • If there are issues that need fixing, ask the vendor to suggest a price reduction.
  • Contact the boat builder to get a ballpark figure of what the boat could be worth.
  • Remember that some boats hold their value well if they've been taken care of. (Espcially certain brands such as Empacher, Filippi, Fluid Design, Hudson)
  • Factor in any repairs or parts you'll need to buy.

Final Tips

Always try the boat before buying. Use your instinct – does it feel nice to row? Trust your gut feeling.

Remember that a respray can make an old boat look like new, but it's the hull integrity underneath that really matters. If in doubt about any structural issues, speak to a professional boat builder before committing.

Don't be afraid to walk away if something doesn't feel right – there will always be other boats.